* I assume she means "makrut" or Thai lime leaves. S.C.

This recipe, from the City Restaurant and Border Grill in Los Angeles, presents melons in a sweet and savory context. In order to have a contrast of colors and flavors, use portions of several melons. The recipe calls for approximately 2 pounds of prepared melon about half a pound per person. The specialty items may be found in Thai grocery stores.

Cut the melons into small dice or thin ribbons.

Arrange on a platter.

Place the chiles, lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar, pea- nuts, dried shrimp, crushed lime leaves and garlic puree in a blender; blend until thoroughly mixed. Pour over the salad and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Per Serving: 165 calories, 5 g protein, 21 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 506 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

Sibella Krause writing in the San Francisco Chronicle, 8/7/91.