** preferably Vidalia or Bermuda, cut in half lengthwise, each half cut into thin lengthwise slices

To prepare chicken, begin preparations 24 hours or up to 3 days before serving. Rinse chickens under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Cut chicken at all joints and cut breast and back section into halves. Remove as much skin as possible. Slash each piece in several places to enable marinade to penetrate.

Place chicken pieces in large bowl and sprinkle with salt. Add lemon and lime juices and toss to coat well. Set chicken aside 30 minutes while mixing rest of marinade.

Place yogurt, garlic, ginger root, cumin, coriander, tumeric, cayenne, pepper, cinnamon and cloves in food processor or blender and blend on high speed until well mixed, about 60 seconds. Pour mixture over chicken, mixing to coat all pieces on all sides. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 24 hours, preferably 3 days.

Remove chicken from marinade, reserving marinade. Using a wadded-up ball of plastic wrap, small brush or back of spoon, paint chicken with red food coloring (since food coloring stains, I prefer to use the plastic wrap, which can be discarded).

Lightly grease grill rack and use tongs to place chicken on hot grill, arranging thicker dark-meat pieces over hottest part of coals. Grill, covered, brushing with marinade every 5 minutes, until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife. Breast and wings will take about 15 minutes, other pieces about 20 minutes.

(Marination makes chicken cook faster than usual.)

To prepare Garnish, grill hot chili peppers alongside chicken until blackened and limp. Set aside.

While chicken is cooking, heat large, heavy pan, preferably cast iron, until very hot. Add oil to pan and tilt to cover evenly. Add onions and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes or until browned but still crisp. Remove at once to paper towels.

To serve, place chicken on large platter. Garnish with grilled chili peppers, onions, fresh cilantry, lemon and lime wedges. Makes 6 servings. (I serve with a biryani rice, pappadum and hot mango chutney.)

and roast at 400 degrees 20 to 30 minutes or until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife. To roast in clay cooker, place chicken in cooker (without soaking it). Place covered cooker in cold oven and roast at 475 degrees 20 minutes. Uncover chicken and continue cooking until juices run clear when chicken is pierced with tip of knife, about 10 minutes. This method simulates cooking in a tandoor. It maintains all juices and extracts all fat. Chicken gets more stewed than dry roasted, but flavors are delicious.

Michael W. French Anchorage, Alaska

05-01 Home Cooking