Combine all but 1 teaspoon of the lemon juice in a bowl with 1/4 cup of the cilantro, the chile powder and the salt. Add the cubed fish and turn gently to coat with the marinade. Let stand 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.

Warm the tortillas on the grill, in a steamer or in the oven.

The sauce: Combine the Mexican crema, sugar, milk, minced chile and the remaining teaspoon of lemon juice; mix well.

Thread the fish onto skewers and grill over medium heat for 3 or 4 minutes on each side until just cooked through. Remove the fish from skewers onto double layers of warm tortillas. Add a little of the remaining cilantro, some red and green cabbage and a tablespoon of sauce to each; roll or fold and serve.

Makes 6 tacos.

Per Taco: 275 calories, 18 g protein, 29 g carbohydrate, 10 g fat (5 g saturated), 61 mg cholesterol, 236 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

From an article by Georgeanne Brennan, The San Francisco Chronicle, 7/1/92.