4 stalks fresh lemon grass, bruised, cut into 2-inch lengths 6 fresh Serrano chiles, sliced into rounds 1 large whole chicken breast, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (with or without bones, see note) 4 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla) 5 fresh Kaffir lime leaves (makrut), if available 2 fresh limes, juice 2 tablespoons chopped coriander leaves

Combine coconut milk, chicken stock, galangal, lemon grass and 4 of the chiles in a saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain stock; discard galangal and lemon grass. Return stock to a boil, add chicken and simmer until tender, about 2 minutes. Add fish sauce, citrus leaves and remaining chiles. Stir in the lime juice. Garnish with coriander.

cooking for guests. For the best flavor, however, use a whole small chicken chopped into small pieces with the bones; increase the cooking time until chicken is tender.