Over moderately low heat, saute onion, celery, cayenne if desired, and garlic in oil in a heavy 2 quart pan until tender. Stir frequently.

Strip corn from cobs with a small, sharp knife. Remove stem end of tomatoes and cut up coarsely.

Add corn and tomatoes, water, and salt to sauteed vegetables. Brint to a boil; then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, until corn is tender, aboub 1/2 hour.

The soup is pretty now, but even better if you take the next step: puree it all. Return it to the pot, thinning with a little water and adjusting for salt. Heat, stirring in cilantro leaves just at serving.

Ref *Recipe from The New Laurel's Kitchen, by Laurel Robertson, Carol Flinders, and Brian Rupenthal, 1976 (C) Ten Speed. It's a thick, creamy, coral-colored soup. *Reprinted in Diet For All Seasons, by Elson M. Haas