(1) To prepare the coriander, take the leaves off the stalks, add to a large bowl with plenty of water and soak for 20 seconds, so the silt can settle to the bottom. Gently remove the leaves and chop finely or blend in a food processor.

(2) Put the oil in a *karai* or deep frying pan, add the onions and fry until transparent. Add the garlic and fry for 1 minute, then add the potatoes, salt, red chili powder and turmeric. Cook on lowest heat setting for 5 minutes, or until potatoes are par-cooked.

(3) Add the coriander and fresh chilies (if used) and mix once. Simmer on low heat, for 10 minutes or until potatoes are fully cooked. Stir from time to time to prevent mixture from sticking to the bottom. If the potatoes are cooked but liquid remains, cook uncovered until it evaporates.

(4) In a small frying pan add the ghee and grated ginger and cook on low heat for 1 minute or until brown. Pour on top of the vegetables in the *karai* - this is called "tarka". Take to the table to serve, without mixing.

Serve with warm nan bread or chapattis brushed with some oil or butter, and a bowl of natural yogurt and thin slices of mooli (white radish).

(from A Taste Of Baltistan, Sabiha Khokhar)