You begin with dry mustard, adding vinegar for tartness and wine for mellowness; then you cook with egg yolks to give the spread its velvety smooth texture. You can season the mildly flavored mustard as suggested, or leave if plain. For gift-giving, package the mustards in jars and identify them with decorative labels. In top of a double boiler, stir together mustard, vinegar, wine, sugar, and salt. Let stand, uncovered, for 2 hours. Beat egg yolks into mustard mixture. Place over simmering water and cook, stirring with a wire whisk, until mixture thickens slightly (about 5 minutes). Pour into small jars and let cool. Cover tightly and refrigerate for up to a month. Makes about 1 cup. Tarragon Mustard Follow recipe for Homemade Mustard; when you remove mustard from heat, stir in 1/2 tsp dry tarragon.

Serve with roast lamb or chicken, shrimp, steaks, or as a sandwich spread. Tomato Mustard Follow recipe for Homemade Mustard; adding 1 tsp paprika, 1 Tbl drained and chopped pimento, and 1/4 cup tomato paste with egg yolks. Serve with seafood, hamburgers, frankfurters, or baked ham. Lime Mustard Follow recipe for Homemade Mustard; when you remove mustard from heat, stir in 3/4 tsp grated lime peel and 1 1/2 tsp lime juice. Serve with roast lamb or chicken, shrimp, or