Stir the pears with brown and white sugar in a large, heavy pan. Over medium-low heat slowly raise the mixture to a boil, then cook until thick, stirring from time to time, about 2 hours.

Stir in the raisins, garlic, salt, mustard seed, chilies, ginger, cumin, and cider vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, covered, then take it off the heat, remove the cover and let it stand until it's at room temperature. Cover and let it stand overnight.

The next morning sterilize 5 pint jars with new flats and lids by boiling in water to cover for 12 minutes. Leave the jars in the hot water. Bring the chutney mixture to a boil over low heat and boil slowly, uncovered, until thick, about 1 hour. Stir often. Spoon the mixture into the hot, sterile jars, and seal with flats and lids.

Process the jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. After the jars have cooled, press down on the tops of each one to make sure it has formed a vacuum seal. Lable and date the jars. Refrigerate any jar in which the lid pops, or is non-concave and sealed down tight. Store at least 1 month in a cool, dark place before serving. This chutney will keep up to a year in a cool, dark storage space.

So good you could eat it with a spoon, this spicy preserved pear sets off Indian entrees as well as Southern picnic suppers. Spread a little on a piece of homemade bread then layer with chicken salad with ruffled lettuce for a zippy lunch. Use up less-than-perfect Bartletts, cutting away bruised spots as you peel and core the fruit. Always try to include about one-quarter unripe fruit for best pectin development. For a chunky texture, cut the fruit coarsley. If you prefer a more jam-like texture, cut the fruit into smaller pieces.