1) Remove the stems and leaves from the beets, leaving an inch or two of stem attached to keep the beets from bleeding (see Note). Scrub the beets with a vegetable brush to clean them. Steam until almost soft, 15 to 20 minutes. To test, pierce a beet with a poultry skewer; the skewer should go through with only a trace of resistance. Remove the beets from the steamer and set them aside to cool.

2) Reduce the liquid remaining in the pot to 1 cup. If you should end up with less than 1 cup of liquid, add enough water to make l cup.

3) Place the beet liquid, rosemary, rice vinegar, orange juice, and salt in a saucepan and reduce over a low heat until 1/4 cup remains, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Peel and set aside.

4) Meanwhile, peel and section the orange, removing the white membrane. Set aside.

5) Heat a cast-iron skillet over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the olive oil and then the onions, lower the heat to medium, and saute the onions until they're almost black, 10 to 15 minutes. Allow to cool.

6) When the beets have cooled, cut them into thin strips.

Can be prepared to this point 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

7) To make the beet dressing, add the olive oil and balsamic vinegar to the reserved 1/4 cup of reduced beet mixture and stir until blended.

8) Place the dressing in a bowl. Add the orange sections, sauteed onions, and julienned beets. Gently fold together. I serve this on a white platter with small chunks of cheese around the edges of the beets.

Tips: Save the young, tender beet greens. When blanched, they can substitute for Swiss chard.

Faron, a well-known chef in East Hampton, New York. Although more time-consuming to make than other salads in this book, the complex flavors of sweet beets, tangy oranges, and deep, dark, fried onions make it well worth the effort. Serves 6 to 8 as a first course, or as part of a buffet; 4 as an entree for lunch. Preparation time: 30 minutes; Cooking Time 40

Diane Porter.