Fill a small bowl with very hot tap water. Place olive oil in small saute' pan and set over medium-high heat. When oil barely begins to smoke, add chiles and roast, turning until skins are soft and slightly puffed. Remove chiles to the hot water and let soak for 30 minutes.

In the same skillet and again over high heat, roast garlic cloves, shaking the pan until skins are golden brown and shriveling. Remove from heat. When cloves are cool to the touch, squeeze garlic out of the skins and reserve.

When chiles have finished soaking, drain, seed, and stem them. Place them and the garlic in the bowl of a food processor equipped with a steel blade. Add coriander, salt, chili powder, lemon zest, and one-fourth of the butter. Process until all ingredients are well-pureed. Gradually add the rest of the butter and process until it is incorporated. Add parsley and process a second more just to fold in.

Remove to a storage container and refrigerate to store. To use, melt the butter over low heat.

keep so well and have so many uses. Let this butter, for example, hang around your refrigerator for a couple of months. Toss pasta with it. Make your next omelet with it. Saute' boneless chicken in it. Dollop some on a piece of grilled fish. Cook shrimp in it. Spread it on slices of an old baguette, run them under the broiler, and serve as an appetizer that will bring guests back for more. See what we mean? And do not forget to melt some of the butter over a baked potato. This particular butter uses the mild dried ancho chile pepper to give it a South-west flavor and a rich, rusty color. Allow 2 tablespoons of butter for every 1/4 pound of pasta - a little more if you are adding other ingredients, such as vegetables or chicken, to the pasta.

Prepare-Ahead/Serving Notes: The butter will keep refrigerated for at least three months. Essential Gear: Electric food processor

Here Is A Good Use For Ancho Chili Butter:

Blanch asparagus spears (we especially like California purple asparagus for its plump, tender stalks that require no peeling). Allow 4 to 6 meaty spears per serving. Drain and rinse with cold water. Set aside. In a large saute' pan, melt Ancho Chile Butter, allow 3 to 4 tablespoons per serving. Add asparagus spears and quickly warm in the hot butter. With tongs, remove asparagus to hot plates. Leave any extra butter in the saute' pan. While asparagus warms, cook fresh egg fettuccine until tender. Drain and immediately toss with the remaining butter in saute' pan. Serve the pasta over the asparagus spears and top with a light grating of Parmigiano Reggiano .

Marcella Rosene, Pasta & Co. By Request, Coveted Recipes From Seattle's Leading Take-Out Foodshop Adapted for MasterCook format by Brenda Adams <adamsfmle@sprintmail.com>