Some comments from the cookbook author: "Two major rules for ice cream: First, it should be full of flavor, so that, for example, ... caramel ice cream tastes like caramel. You should not have to guess the flavor; it should be evident from the first bite. Second, the texture should be rich and smooth (the addition of milk prevents it from becoming too heavy)."

Place the egg yolks in a large mixing bowl. Add the salt and whisk until smooth. Set aside.

Combine the sugar and water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan large enough to eventually hold the milk and cream. Dissolve the sugar in the water over low heat. This may take a while. An alternative is to use the microwave, and then transfer the sugar solution to a saucepan. Increase to high heat and cook the syrup until it is golden amber colored. While the sugar is carmelizing, scald the milk and cream.

As soon as the caramel is a golden-amber color, slowly add the milk and cream, 2 T. at a time. Be very careful, as the mixture will bubble up. Whisk the caramel cream into the eggs. Strain and refrigerate until cold. Freeze according to ice cream machine instructions. Yield: 1 quart