1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the sides of a 15 1/2 x 10 1/2-inch jelly-roll pan with butter, then grease an X from corner to corner in the pan. Line the pan with a sheet of parchment or waxed paper so that it overhangs the pan slightly.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the butter, milk, and vanilla. Scald the mixture over medium-low heat but do not allow it to boil. Set aside.

3. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

4. In a medium-size heatproof bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar. Hold the bowl over a very low flame and whisk the eggs constantly until they are lukewarm. Remove from the heat and, using an electric mixer, beat until the mixture is light in color and as thick as whipped cream, 5 to 6 minutes. Reheat the milk mixture over low heat.

5. Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the whipped eggs and gently fold together, using a large rubber spatula. Fold in the remaining flour mixture in two additions. Add the hot milk in a slow stream as you continue folding. Fold to incorporate all the liquid. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and tilt the pan to evenly distribute it.

6. Bake the cake until the center springs back when lightly touched, about 20 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack. Carefully remove the cake from the pan, flip it over, and peel off the paper. Reverse it onto a piece of aluminum foil so that the browned top of the cake faces up. Spread the preserves evenly over the surface. Roll the cake up as tightly as possible and then enclose it in the foil. Refrigerate, seam side down, for at least 3 hours. To serve, using a sharp serrated knife, trim off the ends, then cut into 1-inch-thick slices.

Suggested Wine: Hot or iced tea

imagined I'd be making a jelly roll, but after having strawberry ice cream served with a generous slice of jelly roll alongside at La Heladeria Coppelia in Havana, I decided that a delicious homemade version was a must. This cake stays fresh for a few days when well covered, and it is worth any effort it entails. It truly is a special treat. I used raspberry preserves in this recipe, but strawberry preserves would be equally delicious. Work carefully when removing the cake from the pan. A thin slice is perfect served at teatime with a cup of your favorite brew, steaming hot or iced.