Kissel is a saucelike Russian dessert, usually made with one or more red fruits (berries or plums) and often containing red wine. It is wonderful with pancakes and waffles, and even better with a spoonful of sour cream or yogurt on top. The sauce keeps at least a week in the refrigerator.

Directions:

Remove 3 lengthwise strips of peel from the lemon with a vegetable peeler. Put the peel into a medium-size saucepan along with the sugar and water. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring once or twice to help the sugar dissolve. Reduce the heat and simmer 5 minutes.

Rinse the cranberries (don't rinse frozen berries), and remove any stems or squashed berries. Add to the pan and when boiling, simmer about 5 minutes until most of the skins have popped. Remove and discard the lemon peel. Dip out about 1 cup of the popped berries and reserve.

Puree the remaining berries and the syrup in a food processor or blender and put back in the pan. Stir in the cinnamon and the reserved berries. Serve warm. Makes 2 cups.

Summer Cranberry Sauce: Make this when cranberries aren't available. In a small saucepan, heat one 16-ounce can whole-berry crangerry sauce, 2 strips lemon peel, and about 1/16 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Simmer 5 minutes over low heat, stirring often, to develop the flavor. Discard peel. Serve sauce warm. Makes 1 1/2 cups.