Preheat oven to 200 °C/400°F/Gas 6. Sift the soda flour and bicarbonate of soda into a large mixing bowl. Stir in the wholemeal flour, salt and sugar, until blended. Make a well in the centre and pour in almost all of the buttermilk, stirring with a round-bladed knife or wooden spoon to form a loose dough.

Butter a 2 lb loaf tin. Turn the dough into the tin, leaving the surface rough. Sprinkle with a little extra wholemeal flour to give a nutty surface. Set the tin on a baking sheet and bake for 30 mins, then reduce the temperature to 150 °C/300°F/Gas 2; cook for a further 30 mins until the bread is well risen, brown and crusty on top. The bread is cooked when a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Remove from oven, turn

out the loaf and wrap in a clean cloth; cool completely on a wire rack.