"Mastering the Art of French Cooking, " VVolume 2 (Knopf, 1970). Used in chocolate mousse and other recipes that follow.

Italian (Cooked) Meringue

Combine sugar and water in saucepan and stir well. Cook over medium-high heat but do not stir; swirl pan by handle until mixture comes to a boil. Let it boil until liquid becomes completely clear.

Reduce heat; cover pan and continue to simmer while beating whites. Beat whites slowly until foamy. Then beat in cream of tartar and salt. Increase speed and beat whites until stiff peaks form. Uncover sugar syrup; insert candy thermometer and boil until temperature reaches 238 degrees, or soft ball stage. Remove from heat; start to beat whites at medium speed and slowly pour boiling syrup into whites, beating all the time. Continue to beat until mixture forms stiff peaks, about 8 minutes.

The meringue is the proper consistency if it does not move when a spatula is run through it.