"It's preferable to use freshly ground cumin and coriander seeds yourself, but in a pinch, store bought ground cumin and coriander will do." Halve three onions lengthwise, then cut crosswise into very thin half rings. Chop fourth onion finely. Keep two types of onions separately.

Put garlic and ginger into container of blender or food processor; add 3 Tbsp of the water and process till smooth.

Heat oil in large, wide saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add sliced onions. Stir gently and fry 20 to 25 minutes or until onions are reddish-brown. If necessary, reduce heat near the end of cooking time. Remove onions with slotted spoon; spread on cookie sheet lined with paper towel.

Add cinnamon, cardamom and cloves to hot oil in pan. Stir 5 seconds over medium-high heat. Add 10 cubes meat or as many as pan will hold in single layer. (Do not crowd pan.) Brown meat on one side; turn and brown meat on other side. Remove with slotted spoon; set aside. Repeat with remaining meat.

Add chopped onion to oil. Stir and fry on medium heat until brown around edges.

Add garlic-ginger paste. Stir and fry until all water in it seems to boil away, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat. Add coriander and cumin; fry 30 seconds.

Add 1 Tbsp yogurt; stir and fry, incorporating into sauce. Add another tablespoon yogurt, incorporating it into sauce. Repeat with remaining yogurt.

Add meat and accumulated juices in bowl, remaining water, cayenne and salt. Stir to mix. Bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook 1 hour or until lamb is tender.

Add fried onions and garam marsala. Stir to mix; cook uncovered 2 to 3 minutes, stirring gently.

Remove from heat and let pan sit a couple of minutes. Fat will rise to the top, remove with spoon. Serves: 6