a special meaning because they represent the ceremonial etrog , a citrus fruit that plays an important part in the Succot ritual. Baking these crisp cookies is another task my grandchildren love to share. Together we mix the batter and bake just enough to eat on the spot. Store the unbaked dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate until it is time to bake them for the holiday dinner.

Serve a large platter of these freshly baked cookies, along with a fruit salad, compote or sorbet for the perfect Succot dessert."

Cream margarine and sugar until fluffy in large mixer bowl. Add eggs and blend well. Blend in vanilla and lemon zest.

Add salt and 4-and-1/2 cups of flour, 1 cup at time, alternately with lemon juice. (Dough will be somewhat sticky.)

Transfer dough to floured surface and knead, adding up to 1/2 cup flour as needed.

Divide into 4 parts and shape each into rope. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze until firm enough to slice, about 30 minutes.

Brush ropes with egg white and roll in crystallized sugar, then slice 1/4-inch thick and place on foil-lined baking sheets.

Bake at 350 degrees until cookies brown lightly around edges, about 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to racks to cool. Makes about 12 dozen cookies.

Each serving contains about:

44 calories; 10 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.01 gram fiber.

Claudia's Note: Crystallized sugar (bigger bits than regular granulated sugar) can be found in ethnic food stores, or in the baking section of your local supermarket. These multicolored granuals are like those used on the giant muffins from the bakery shop.