The California Cook, Diana Rossen Worthington, Serves 6 to 8

These mashed potatoes are slightly tangy because they contain yogurt. Yukon God or Yellow Finn potatoes have a pleasing consistency for mashed potatoes. Starchy potatoes like russets will turn out fluffier; yellow, red, or white potatoes will have a creamier texture.

1. Immerse the potatoes in cold water for 5 minutes to remove excess starch. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the potatoes for about 15 to 20 minutes or until fork-tender. Drain and return them to the pot. Over light heat, dry the potatoes tossing them occasionally, for about 1 or 2 minutes or until all the moisture is evaporated.

2. Put the potatoes through a potato ricer or mash them with a potato masher in a large mixing bowl. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the butter and milk and bring to a simmer. Pour over the potato mixture and blend well. Add the yogurt, salt, pepper, and chives and blend well into the potatoes. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Advance Preparation: Can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead, covered, and kept at room temperature. Reheat gently in the top of a double boiler over medium heat. Add extra milk as needed. Taste for seasoning.