>From Miami Spice by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $12.95). The recipe is from Los Ranchos Restaurant in Miami, which was founded by a nephew of the late Nicaraguan president Anastasio Somoza.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter a 13-by-9-by-2-inch baking dish. Beat 3/4 cup sugar and egg yolks until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Fold in milk, vanilla, flour and baking powder. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks, adding cream of tartar after 20 seconds. Gradually add remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and continue beating until whites are glossy and firm but not dry. Gently fold whites into yolk mixture. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake cake until it feels firm and an inserted toothpick comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Let cake cool completely on a wire rack. Unmold cake onto a deep, large platter. Pierce cake all over with a fork. Pour Milk Syrup over cake. Spoon the overflow back on top until all is absorbed. Using a wet spatula, spread top and sides of cake with a thick layer of Meringue. Refrigerate the cake covered at least 2 hours before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Milk Syrup: Combine evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, cream, vanilla and rum in a mixing bowl. Whisk until well mixed.

Meringue: Place 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar in heavy saucepan with water. Cover and cook over high heat 2 minutes. Uncover pan and cook the sugar to the soft-ball stage, 239 degrees on a candy thermometer, 6 to 8 minutes. Meanwhile, beat egg whites to soft peaks with cream of tartar in electric mixer. Add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar gradually, continuing beating to stiff peaks. Pour boiling sugar syrup in a thin stream into the whites and continue beating until mixture is cool to the touch. The hot syrup "cooks" the whites.