Peel, core, and slice the apples, dropping them into a large saucepan as you work. Add the red wine, the sugar (using more or less, depending on the tartness of the apples) and the bay leaf. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for about 15-20 minutes.

As the apples soften and become tender, mash them with the back of a spoon or potato masher. Remove the bay leaf. If you want a thicker applesauce, boil it uncovered, stirring almost constantly, to reduce slightly. If you like a very smooth sauce, put it through a food mill. Stir in the butter and add more sugar to taste.

water, giving it an interesting flavor and color. I first had this in the Napa Valley, with barbecued pork."