This cinnamon-orange marinade, characteristic of Balkan cooking, is a specialty of Georgia in south-central Russia. The tabaka marinade is usually used with chicken and game hen, but it also goes nicely with swordfish.

Remove zest of 1 orange and the lemon. (This is best done using a vegetable peeler. Be sure to take only the zest, not bitter white pith beneath it.) Juice oranges, lemon and limes. Combine juice and zest in bowl. Peel and mince garlic and ginger root. Finely chop onion. Add garlic, ginger and onion to citrus juices along with cinnamon, paprika, sugar, salt, black pepper, nutmeg, wine and oil. Whisk to mix. Makes enough marinade for 1 1/2 pounds chicken, game hens and swordfish.