1. Stir peaches, lemon juice, a pinch salt, and 1/2 cup sugar in medium-size nonreactive saucepan to combine; let stand until a pool of syrupy liquid accumulates and peaches soften slightly, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

2. Position sieve over medium bowl set in an ice-water bath; set aside. Heat milk, cream, and 1/2 cup sugar in medium-size heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steam appears, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn off heat. Meanwhile, whisk yolks and remaining 6 tablespoons sugar in medium bowl until pale yellow. Stir half the warmed milk mixture into beaten yolk mixture until just blended. Return milk-yolk mixture to saucepan of remaining warmed milk mixture. Heat milk-yolk mixture over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with wooden spoon until steam appears, foam subsides, and mixture just begins to thicken or instant-read thermometer registers 180 degrees F (mixture must not boil or eggs will curdle). Remove from heat, and immediately strain custard into prepared bowl. Cool custard mixture to room temperature, stir in vanilla, then cover and refrigerate until instant-read thermometer registers 40 degrees F, at least 2 and up to 24 hours. [I made the custard the day before I froze it, a good idea generally, and let it cool in the fridge all night and most of the next day. I didn't bother to measure the temperature.]

3. Meanwhile, heat softened peaches and their liquid, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat until peaches are tender and flesh has broken down, 3 to 4 minutes. [The idea is to soften the peaches so they won't be rock hard when the custard is frozen. You don't want them completely cooked because you want to preserve the fresh peach flavor.] Transfer to bowl, stir in vodka, and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 and up to 24 hours. [The addition of the vodka is again for the texture of the frozen peaches.]

4. Strain chilled peaches, reserving liquid. Stir reserved peach liquid into chilled custard mixture; pour into ice cream machine canister and churn, following manufacturer's instructions, until mixture is frozen and resembles soft-serve ice cream, 25 to 30 minutes. Add peaches; continue to churn until combined, about 30 seconds longer. Transfer ice cream to airtight container. Freeze until firm, about 2 hours.

rec. Food. Cooking by Kay Hartman <hartmans@mediaone. Net>