Adapted from The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking (Morrow '82) and China Moon Cookbook (Workman '92).

An all-purpose Chinese seasoning. Great as a finishing for soups, pastas, vinaigrettes, buttered corn, grilled burgers ... Use sparingly. The peppercorns heighten the flavor of the salt, making this a fine gift for those who watch their salt.

1. Combine the peppercorns and salt in a heavy, dry skillet. Toast over moderate heat, stirring, until the salt turns off-white and the mixture is intensely fragrant, about 5 minutes. The peppercorns will smoke; do not let them burn.

2. Grind the hot mixture in a food processor or with a mortar and pestle until fine. Sieve to remove husks. Store airtight in a clean bottle.

Sichuan peppercorn note: If you've had the good fortune to travel in China and land some fabulously pungent Sichuan peppercorns, you'll want to use only about half as much. This recipe is styled for the average grade stuff imported to the U.S., which is gray-brown instead of red-brown and frequently packed with a lot of dust and debris which should be sifted out before use.

A great local source for Sichuan peppercorns (and chili flakes too!) is San Francisco Herb Co., 250 14th Street in Sf, 415.861.7174.

Romanization note! Sichuan and Szechwan are the same place, namely the rich and fertile mountain-bound province in central China whose name means "Four Streams", where chilies and Sichuan peppercorns are kings of the kitchen. "Szechwan" is the classic way linguists wrote the name. "Sichuan" is the modern romanization.

1880mg Cff 9.3%