In a large skillet, fry salt pork until nearly crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of fat. Reduce heat to low and add onion, garlic and curry powder. Saute until onion and garlic are soft, about 12 minutes. In a 5-quart pot combine potatoes with salt, tarragon and enough water to cover potatoes by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and cook potatoes 15 minutes. Drain off water, then add corn, fresh and evaporated milks, onion mixture, reserved salt pork, lemon pepper, butter, and sugar, if using. Simmer, covered, until thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Add more milk as needed. Cool and refrigerate, covered, overnight. Reheat and serve next day, very warm.

Makes 15 to 20 cups