"The people of Kwangju where this recipe originates like their food salty and chili-hot. The fermented denjang paste provides the basis of the seasonings, aided by the chili and ginger. The fresh crabs absorb the flavors and the entire soup is enormously attractive. I went to my teacher's house one August in the middle of a three day pre-typhoon downpour. Sheets of water poured out of the sky as my taxi wended its way to the edge of town. The rice fields in this rice-growing region shimmered with an intense green as the rain engulfed the paddy. It had a wild, wet beauty but I was glad when I arrived and could concentrate in comfort on the crabs and the soup."

1. Put the water and bean paste (denjang) into a pan and simmer over low heat, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the bean curd and cook for 5 minutes more.

2. Now add all the other ingredients and cook for 15 minutes more. Serve in 4 individual bowls with rice and an assortment of side dishes.