Haroset (also charoset or charoses), the blend of fruit and nuts symbolizing the mortar which our forefathers used to build pyramids in Egypt, is one of the most popular and discussed foods served at the Seder. The fruit and nuts found in almost all haroset recipes refer to two verses in the Song of Songs closely linked with the spring season: "Under the apple tree I awakened thee" (8:5) and "I went down into the garden of nuts" (6:11). The red wine recalls the Red Sea, which parted its waters for the Jews.

The real purpose of the haroset is to allay the bitterness of the maror (bitter herbs) required at the Seder. And from this combination of the haroset and maror between two pieces of matzo, the sandw ich may have been invented by the Rabbi Hillel, the great Jewish teacher who lived between 90 Bce and 70CE. Haroset also shows how Jewish cookery was developed by the emigration from Mediterranean co untries to Easter Europe and by local ingredients supplemented or discarded based on their availability.

Although most American Jews are familiar with the mixture of apples, almonds, cinnamon, wine and ginger, this is by no means the only combination possible. Walnuts, pine nuts, peanuts or chestnuts ma y be combined with apricots, coconuts, raisins, dates, figs, or even bananas.

Whereas Ashkenazic (Eastern European) haroset is quite universal, differing only texturally, that of the Sephardic (Spanish/Arabic/Mediterranean) Jews changes according to the country and sometimes e ven the city of origin. On the island of Rhodes, for example, dates, walnuts, ginger and sweet wine are used. The Greek city of Salonika adds raisins to this basic recipe; Turkish Jews, not far away, include an orange. Egyptians eat dates, nuts, raisins and sugar, without the ginger or wine. Yemenites use chopped dates and figs, coriander and chili pepper. An interesting haroset from Venice has chestnut paste and apricots, while one from Surinam, Dutch Guinea, calls for seven fruits including coconut. Each Israeli uses the Diaspora haroset recipe of his ancestors or an Israeli version that might include pignolia nuts, peanuts, bananas, apples, dates, sesame seeds, matzo meal and red wine.

Most people like their haroset recipe so well that it is not only spread on matzo and dipped in horseradish at the Seder table. Some families make large quantities to be eaten for breakfast, lunch an d snacks throughout Passover.

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