This is typical of what you would find on tables in northern Mexico, where salsas tend to be a little brutal - hot and very direct with uncomplicated flavors. I love this kind of salsa on quesadillas and broiled meats. A great all-purpose condiment, a spoonful or two will enliven almost any dish. Be careful, though. People in the north like their food hot.

Pan roast tomatoes until blistered, deeply browned, and soft. Pan roast garlic until brown and soft, then peel.

Heat the corn oil in a medium-sized skillet until hot but not smoking. Fry the chiles, 1 or 2 at a time, until puffed and brown, about 10 seconds. Do not burn or they will taste bitter. Shake off excess oil from chiles and place in a blender. Add 2 tablespoons chile cooking oil, tomatoes, garlic, and water. Blend until smooth. Add the oregano, salt, and cumin and blend again. Keeps, tightly covered, about 3 days in the refrigerator.

g.howard@ix.netcom.com