Make the croutons ahead for this traditional recipe from Joie Warner's "Salads" (Hearst Books, 1988).

With the motor running, drop garlic cloves into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Mince, then add anchovies and process to combine.

With the motor running, add oil in a thin stream until thickened. Add lemon juice and egg; process a few seconds to combine.

Tear lettuce leaves into manageable pieces and place in a large salad bowl. Add dressing and toss.

Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, toss again, and top with croutons.

Serve at once, passing the pepper mill for each person to add to taste.

Croutons: Melt 1 tablespoon butter with 5 tablespoons best-quality olive oil in a large skillet. Add 2 small garlic cloves, minced; 1 teaspoon oregano; and 1/2 teaspoon thyme.

Cut 5 slices day-old bread (crusts removed) into 1/2-inch cubes and fry until lightly browned. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.